We now know that populist Hungarian President Viktor Orban was swept out of office after sixteen years. My cousin BA and I were due to arrive in Budapest the day after the election. As our flight drew closer, Orban was talking about trying to cancel voting and there were widespread protests. It looked anything but calm in the country’s capital.
So, we decided to pivot and visit Prague instead. As you can see below, Budapest was part of a well-planned route that basically took us in a southerly direction from Krakow. Prague was a western detour from Poland. But we are so glad we spent a little more time commuting because it was totally worth it. To Prague, we rode in a luxurious bus with an on-board cappucino maker and bathroom, followed by a ride on a fast train. To Croatia, the bus wasn’t as cushy but it was clean and safe. What more could you want?
Prague, How We Love Thee
The mural at the top is the John Lennon Wall in Prague. This collage of graffiti symbolizes the people’s wish for true freedom and peace. Lennon never visited Prague but his lyrics and his shortened life became the way young people chose to express their hope for change. It was painted over hundreds of times by the establishment before they finally gave up and let it be.
Praha to locals, Prague is known as the Golden City and the City of a Hundred Spires among other complimentary nicknames. It’s simply gorgeous. From the architecture to the many squares that began as meeting places centuries ago, Prague is a feast for the eyes. We logged about 10 km per day walking its cobblestone streets. The King Charles Bridge was finished in the mid-1300s to connect the growing communities on either side of the Vltava River. Today, there are excellent street musicians and artists offering their wares along the bridge. BA now has a gorgeous collection of Prague streetscapes for her walls.
I’ve always wanted to ride a Segway so I tried to book a Segway tour. But Segways are no longer allowed in the city. Instead, we went on a guided, three-wheel electric trike tour that was big fun. My motorcycle skills came in handy as we navigated through rush-hour city traffic.
There is no shortage of things to do in Prague. We also went to the Banksy museum and explored every ancient nook and historical cranny.
Prague’s astronomical clock tracks the time as well as the movements of celestial bodies. It was first installed in 1410 and it’s the oldest astronomical clock in the world that’s still in operation. Attached to the old town hall, you can go up inside and view the city, so we did!
Je T’Adore, Doors
BA and I both have a thing for doors in European cities. You’ll be walking along and then suddenly, there it is: an ornate door like no other.
In case it isn’t obvious, Prague was the delightful highlight of our trip. It didn’t hurt that our accomodation was a two-bathroom apartment perfectly located for seeing the sights. I could fill pages with jaw-dropping photos of historic locations and buildings but I think you get the idea. Prague is everything that everyone says it is. Wonderful food. Amazing history. It’s beautiful. welcoming, and almost magical.
Zagreb, Croatia, the Last Stop on Our Journey
Most people go to Croatia to visit the coast and its many lakes and waterfalls. For complex reasons I will not get into here, that didn’t happen for us. It’s what we had planned but plans sometime have to change. So, we spent our three-day Croatian stop in the capital, Zagreb.
A woman at Pearson airport who heard me mispronounce Zagreb and gently corrected me (It’s ZA-greb), suggested a museum there. The Museum of Broken Relationships. It was a strange and wonderful stop to view things people had sent that they wanted to shed because of a breakup. Items included everything from clothing to jewelry to shattered mementos.
We also toured the Chocolate Museum. It’s a tasting tour as well as an educational one. Another thing I love about different cities is their advertising. (See the guitar-playing cat and barber shop sticker!)
We spent another great day on the Sljeme Cable Car, going up to overlook the city and enjoy nature. Then a leisurely lunch and another slow glide back down.
Like all older European cities, Zagreb has an area – Upper Town – established centuries ago. The city’s main cathedral was damaged in a 2020 earthquake but has mostly been restored. Medvedgrad medieval fortress had been abandoned since the year 1590 but a decades-long restoration project that began in the 70s is still underway.
Many buildings in Zagreb are being refaced or restored. The city also has lots of statues with a more modern twist than, say, Warsaw. They include Croatian-born Nikola Tesla, and this modern piece by a Croatian artist.
We ate wonderful food in Zagreb including all ramen, Italian, and cheese buns the size of my head. As we did in the other countries, we attempted to say hello, please and thank you in Croatian. It makes a difference when you try. Even if you mess it up, they appreciate the effort. However, most merchants and restaurant staff speak some English.
In Conclusion
I’m sorry that I can’t lend my cousin out because she’s great to travel with! She’s resourceful and funny and reasonable and generous and … shall I go on? 😀 I’m so glad we went and grateful for all of the experiences that will go into the stew of my life. Or is that the borscht? In all, we took four flights with LOT Polish Airlines and they were all wonderful, too. Now, if you need me, I’ll be waiting for Derek to pull on the perogi socks I brought back for him. Because we’re nothing if not classy.
PS. A Few Things to Know In Case You Go
If you’ve visited major European cities, you’re aware it seems as if everyone smokes. And if they don’t smoke, they vape. It’s just the way it is so be ready for it. Certain types of restaurants and bars allow smoking inside. And if they don’t, you can bet a busy patio will be smoky. It’s all good as long as you’re aware of it.
Zagreb was the only city where we had unfriendly moments as tourists. Mostly, people were wonderful and welcoming. But it’s also where people physically pushed me, more than once.
The most obvious instance happened in heavy rain on our last day. We ducked under a short awning to quickly check the map and an old man opened the door and shoved me off the wet step into the street while yelling who knows what. Impatience with us was palpable among several older people we encountered. We are respectful visitors who realize we’re in a different country, and it’s their country. It wasn’t personal. There were few people out in the rain and maybe sales are down?! Who knows what caused his frustration to boil over.
On Sunday, we had set out early for the antique and collectibles market in British Square. It’s a weekly picker’s paradise. It’s early in the season and I’m certain we were the only tourists there. Some older vendors turned their backs to us as we approached. I tried to greet them with a friendly, “Bok”, but some just weren’t having it.
Perhaps they don’t want their city to change with an influx of visitors. And let’s remember what they’ve been through. They were a republic governed by Yugoslavia until holding their first free election in 1990 which thrust them into a war for independence the following year. They’ve only had true democracy since the turn of the last century. Older people in Zagreb seem to be out of effs and I can’t really blame them. But they could be a little more subtle about it!